Cracked Heat Exchanger: Symptoms and How It's Confirmed
Signs of a cracked furnace heat exchanger, how a technician confirms it with a camera and CO readings, what to do after a red tag, and repair vs replace.
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South St. Paul furnace calls are a $79 trip charge up front, waived when you say yes to the work, and you get a written flat-rate price first. Many older South St. Paul houses vent the furnace into a masonry chimney, so draft is an early check.
About a quarter of South St. Paul's houses predate 1940 and another quarter went up in the 1950s, so repair calls lean old. In the pre-war blocks above the bluff, some houses still heat with hot-water or steam boilers, and the calls there are weeping relief valves, waterlogged expansion tanks, tired circulator pumps and, on steam, low-water cutoffs. Forced-air houses from both eras often have a replacement furnace venting into a masonry chimney.
The vent pipe between furnace and chimney gets extra attention in South St. Paul, because it's on the city's time-of-sale checklist: holes, gaps, a pipe that doesn't run uphill or joints without three screws are marked hazardous. If we find one on a repair visit, we point it out and price the fix alongside the worn igniter, flame sensor or inducer that brought us there.
Updated October 27, 2026
National averages (HomeGuide, 2026), not our prices: a limit switch $100–$375, a control board $300–$650, an inducer motor $400–$1,100. More in the furnace repair cost guide.
Symptom guides: Won't ignite · Short cycling · Blinking light codes · Pressure switch trips · Signs your furnace needs a technician
A cold masonry chimney on an outside wall can stall or reverse its draft, and the furnace and water heater then spill exhaust at the draft hood or lock out on a pressure switch. Fallen mortar or tile at the chimney base, a connector that doesn't run uphill, or a tight house with strong bath and kitchen fans make it worse. We run both appliances together, test draft and measure carbon monoxide, and tell you whether the fix is a connector, a liner or a replacement.
Usually a new vent connector: approved pipe that runs uphill from the furnace to the chimney, three screws at every joint, sealed tightly at the chimney with an approved sealant rather than silicone or latex caulk, and the right clearance to wood (6 inches for single-wall pipe, 1 inch for double-wall B-vent). We finish by testing draft at both appliances. Some hazard corrections need a city permit.
Signs of a cracked furnace heat exchanger, how a technician confirms it with a camera and CO readings, what to do after a red tag, and repair vs replace.
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