Cracked Heat Exchanger: Symptoms, How It's Confirmed and What to Ask For
Signs of a cracked furnace heat exchanger, how a technician confirms one, what to ask for if your furnace is red-tagged, and when to repair or replace it.
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Much of Chanhassen was built in the 1990s and 2000s, so plenty of its furnaces are original high-efficiency units now 20-plus years old. We fix them any day, 7am–9pm, with a $79 trip charge that's waived when you approve the repair and a written price before any work.
Most Chanhassen homes went up in the 1990s and 2000s, and plenty still run the furnace the builder put in. At that age the repairs are the high-efficiency kind: a condensate trap that clogs and trips the pressure switch, an inducer motor that starts to rattle, a flame sensor that needs cleaning, a control board that loses a relay. Two-stories with a finished lower level also produce calls about a furnace that can't keep up, which often turn out to be the bonus room over the garage rather than the furnace.
In the newest neighborhoods near Highway 212, furnaces are tied to air exchangers and sometimes zoning panels, so a fault can live in the controls rather than the burner. Walkout lower levels near Lotus Lake and Lake Minnewashta usually put the furnace in an unfinished corner with good access. Keep the PVC terminations outside clear of drifting snow, since a blocked intake is an easy lockout to prevent.
Updated September 23, 2026
Every furnace repair call in Chanhassen starts with a $79 trip charge, waived when you approve the repair, and a written price before any work. Same prices in Chanhassen as in every town we serve. National averages (HomeGuide, 2026), not our prices: a flame sensor $80–$250, a pressure switch $150–$400, a limit switch $100–$375. More in the furnace repair cost guide.

More detail on our furnace repair page.
Symptom guides: Blowing cold air · Won't ignite · Short cycling · Blinking light codes · Pressure switch trips · Strange noises · Leaking water · Burning smell · Red tag · Carbon monoxide
Probably not, if the other zones still heat. A dead zone usually means a damper motor that failed closed, a thermostat that lost power, or a fault at the zone control panel. We check the panel's indicator lights and test each damper before looking at the furnace. If the furnace short-cycles when only one small zone calls, the bypass or the furnace's staging may need adjusting too.
A high-efficiency furnace makes water, which drains through a trap and tubing to a floor drain or condensate pump. After 15 or 20 years the trap clogs, a hose cracks or the pump's float sticks, and water backs up. Often the pressure switch trips at the same time and the furnace quits. It's usually a modest repair, but shut the furnace off if water is reaching the burner compartment or the control board.
Signs of a cracked furnace heat exchanger, how a technician confirms one, what to ask for if your furnace is red-tagged, and when to repair or replace it.
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