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Furnace Replacement in North St. Paul, MN

A new furnace for a North St. Paul house runs $4,500–$9,500 installed with us, from about $4,500 for an 80% model to $9,500 for 96–98%. Remodeled houses get a Manual J that counts the addition and finished basement.

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Furnace replacements in North St. Paul homes

Replacing a furnace in a postwar North St. Paul house usually starts with the venting question. A 96–98% furnace leaves the chimney for two PVC pipes through the rim joist, and the water heater left behind needs a liner or a power-vent model, which belongs in the quote. An 80% furnace can stay in a sound, properly lined chimney, and it still makes sense in some houses.

Sizing takes care because so many houses here have been remodeled. A Manual J counts the addition, the finished basement and the newer windows, and it sometimes shows the old furnace was too big for the original house and poorly matched to the new layout. In post-2000 townhomes, the question is whether the existing PVC runs and condensate route suit the new unit. Xcel Energy supplies the gas, so its heating equipment rebates apply; check whether the model you want needs a participating contractor. A replacement normally needs a city mechanical permit; ask us how it shows on your quote.

Updated November 10, 2026

What affects the price of a new furnace in North St. Paul?

By efficiency: 80% AFUE roughly $4,500–$6,000; 96–98% AFUE roughly $6,500–$9,500. See the furnace replacement cost guide.

Are there rebates for a new furnace in North St. Paul?

For a new gas furnace, look to Xcel Energy's heating equipment rebates, whose page points you to participating contractors, so settle that question before choosing an installer. Ask us which rebates apply when we quote. Rebate programs change every year, so check the utility's current terms before you buy.

Our guides: Xcel and CenterPoint rebates, heat pump rebates.

Furnace replacement in North St. Paul: questions

We added a family room to our North St. Paul house. Does the new furnace need to be bigger?

Not necessarily. The addition raises the heating load, but new windows, insulation and air sealing done over the years may have lowered it elsewhere, and many older furnaces were oversized to begin with. A Manual J load calculation on the house as it stands now gives the answer. The bigger issue is often the ductwork: an addition fed by one branch off the end of the trunk needs its own supply and return, whatever size the furnace is.

Our older North St. Paul house has very little rim joist above grade. Where would the PVC pipes for a 96% furnace go?

A few routes work. The pipes can pass through the foundation wall in a core-drilled, sealed opening, rise through a chase to the roof, or exit a higher wall from a closet or soffit. Each termination needs the manufacturer's minimum height above grade and expected snow, plus distance from windows and the gas meter. If no route works well, an 80% furnace in a lined chimney is the fallback, and we price both.

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