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Furnace Repair in Andover, MN

Furnace repair in Andover starts with a $79 trip charge, waived once you approve the repair, for CenterPoint gas and propane acreage homes. Past the CenterPoint gas mains many Andover homes run propane, and a dry tank or a frozen regulator is the first thing to rule out.

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Furnace repair calls in Andover homes

Andover furnace calls split two ways. In the 1980s and 90s split-entries, the furnace is often on its second round, and the failures fit its age: a tired blower motor, a cracked igniter, or a limit switch tripping because the filter is packed. In houses from the 2000s on, the furnace is a condensing model vented in PVC, and plenty of no-heat calls trace to the vent or the condensate drain rather than the burner. A drain line run along a cold rim joist can freeze solid in a cold snap and shut the furnace off.

The acreage adds propane. A propane furnace uses the same igniters, sensors and boards as a gas one, but when the tank runs dry the supplier typically leak-checks the system before gas is restored, and air in the line can take several ignition tries to clear.

Updated November 10, 2026

What do common furnace repairs cost in Andover?

National averages (HomeGuide, 2026), not our prices: a control board $300–$650, an inducer motor $400–$1,100, a PSC blower motor $500–$1,400. More in the furnace repair cost guide.

Furnace repair in Andover: questions

Our propane furnace in Andover shut off and the tank gauge reads low. What should we do?

Call your propane supplier first. After a tank runs out, the supplier typically has to test the system for leaks before gas is restored, and the furnace may need a few ignition attempts while air clears the line. If it still won't light once propane is back, call us. We check gas pressure at the valve, since propane runs at a different pressure than natural gas and a wrong setting keeps burners from lighting cleanly.

Our newer Andover furnace vents out the side of the house. Why does it quit on the coldest nights?

On condensing furnaces, the two PVC pipes and the condensate drain are the usual suspects in deep cold. Frost builds on the exhaust, drifting snow blocks the intake, or a drain line along a cold wall freezes and backs water into the furnace until a safety switch stops it. Check outside and clear snow from both pipes. If it keeps happening, the vent or drain routing needs correcting, and we quote that in writing.

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Heat out? AC quit? Call or send a request.

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